Tuesday, July 14, 2009

The Three Musketeers

Kenway, Brian, and I met at MPHC yesterday for a bouldering session. Kenway and I arrived first. We first did two V1s. This was followed by three V2s. Brian arrived as we worked on the third one, and thus that what he started on.

The more serious stuff started next, when we tackled the V3s. We did 3 of those, and although they were not easy, they didn't feel too hard.

Next we moved to the 4s. Brian picked a black vertical V4 which involved a difficult move to a big piece (slopper), where you would put your right hand to the top and left hand to the left before rocking over your right foot (which is on a tiny piece) and extend to a piece far out right. Then after a bit of footwork, you go high to a slopper and explode to the final hold. We worked that problem for a while. After that we kept working on V4s, and in the end we must have tried between 5 and 7 of them (not sure exactly). We also put our hands on a few V5s but with no luck.

My plan was to work on the less fingery stuff to protect the fingers of my left hand which are in constant pain these days, and I think it worked (I also had done quite a good tape job).

Finally, on our way back, I think I have figured out why Kenway is having problems with his starts. It all dates back to when he started climbing in jeans. I think they are limiting his movements and that's why he has a hard time getting his feet in position. There you go, one problem solved!

3 comments:

kenny g said...

Felt like both B and G were outclimbing me yesterday; they were climbing well. Not sure I can blame it all on the jeans, however. Need to work on better body positioning though, I think that's where a lot of my troubles start.

Climbed in my trad shoes (Mythos), which suck for small edging footholds, and are not much better for pulling in on overhanging stuff. Unless I spring for another pair of shoes while mine are at the resoler, I'm stuck with these for a few weeks. Not sure whether this will train more precise footwork or teach bad habits like ignoring footwork altogether, though.

I like the variety at MPHC - a good density of routes in one spot, though it does get a little crowded.

brian said...

Good climbing. I second the jeans.

The 4s felt quite a bit harder than the 3s. Feels good to finally be completing some 4s at MPHC!

g said...

Its the jeans dude!

The 5s seemed impossible far from the 4s...